EMERGE has witnessed a pretty astonishing phenomenon over the past 12 months or so. While long lines and absurd prices for rare Nike Dunks have become a cultural phenomenon across the globe, they've been happening for a couple years now in NYC. Supreme has had long lines outside it's SoHo boutique for just about every release of Nike SB kicks as well as Supreme's many collaborations with Nike and Vans. Nevertheless, even in fashion-forward NYC, the proliferation of streetwear's signature looks (think allover print hoodies, pastel sneakers, japanese denim) have become the citywide uniform of choice for dudes, be they skaters, hipsters or just guys from the block.

Even as the aesthetic it helped define has crossed over, Supreme has taken the collaboration thing into hyperspace, launching a line of skateboard decks designed by Jeff Koons(building off a long line of artist-collaborations including Peter Saville and Kaws), a series of Vans and apparel featuring the photography of Ari Marcopoulos, a range of shoes, skateboards and clothes in partnership with rap legends Public Enemy, a range of New Era fitted baseball hats bearing the brand's Barbara Kruger-inspired logo, and now Supreme is announcing a partnership with Timberland to produce Timberland X Supreme (in the parlance of streetwear collaborations) boots.

Based on a style of Timbos that have been ubiquitous in NYC for the past several years, the Supreme version features an unusual colorway which pairs brown leather with a purple nylon material and a padded ankle collar in beige camouflage.

While rumors suggest that Supreme's glut of collaborations is due to some vacancies in the brand's design department, to many people it is emblematic of the state of streetwear in general. As mass brands like New Era, Nike and Timberland continually draw inspiration and credibility from very protective, authentic brands like Supreme, they are taking the aesthetics and worldview of that niche brand and amplifying it far beyond its core audience. While there is nothing wrong with this in and of itself, it has a trickle down effect throughout the industry which Supreme helped establish.

As the paradigmatic brand in the streetwear scene wanders aimlessly through a thicket of collaborations and corporate partnerships, it detracts from the scene's overall vitality. The backlash is already beginning as blogs like Don't Believe The Hypebeast dress down the "cool guys" and the brands they worship. Most of all, the critics cite the illusory originality espoused by the collective groupthink of the streetwear scene and the absurdity of so much of the product.

Just wait until they get wind of this nightmare of a shoe...

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